Family man starts 15 feet left of Boys With Power Toys. This steep route climbs through 3 successive overhangs.
Climb a 5.8 slab up to a left-facing corner. A 5.10 move gets you established below the first roof. (The first roof is typical blocky Flatirons sandstone. Be a little careful with what you pull on here but the rest of the route has solid stone.) A 5.11 move gets you to jugs at the lip and then a good rest above.
The second roof is the crux, maybe a V3 move to a jug, hard to read and easier if you're tall. Be ready to keep moving, the pump clock will be ticking from here to the top. After the crux, traverse right along a rail. A weird 10+ move back left gets you to another jug. The final bulge is 5.11 on cool, water sculpted holds. At the last bolt, 11th, move right and up to the anchor.
Matt Samet drilled all 11 protection bolts for me on 6/21/08. What a Bro! I doubt I could have redpointed the same day if I had to do all that drilling. Thanks Matt. Matt tr'd clean and then pulled up the drill. After another top rope burn and some thorough brushing I was able to redpoint on my first attempt. Phil went up there with me last year the first time we climbed on the route. As usual Phil figured out all the moves right away. I sent the route on tr that day.
Funny, Matt and I were just talking about that very subject in reference to a different route a little earlier this week. The contribution and effort speaks very well of Matt... but to get 'credit' for an ascent, I have always thought that climbing the route is required.
Very nice route Chris, a good addition to the selection of climbs there! However, I was surprised to find a long (20+ foot?) runout at the end and I'm wondering if I missed a bolt up there? Now all we need is a warm up route easier than 11d for this area!
Glad you liked the route, Steve. After the 11th, and last bolt, you move up and right until standing on a small ledge. Then it's a 5.8 move to the anchor. It wouldn't do to fall there but it's pretty secure. Some other folks have been comfortable with that run out. It's hard to see the anchor from the last bolt.
Nice route Chris, fun climbing and lots of it. Kudos on the heavy labor Matt.
I agree with Steve and gotta say bro, after all your squealing about the "contrived runout" on Kevin's route Wishbone in Eldo, that was quite the little contrived run-out atop this route, seriously out of character with the plethora of nice bolts on the rest of it. Not that I'm suggesting anyone waste their time or money adding one as it's fine. Better than fine, it's a great addition, with more traffic it should become a classic on this soon to be "number crunching crag", keep up the good work man.
The Slab
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