Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July: First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Flatiron Queen Anne's Head WC Fields Pinnacle The Ghetto East Ironing Board West Ironing Board The Fin Green Thumb Jaws
This route lies in the southern part of the Amp. If standing, looking into the Amp, it's on yer left. And there is absolutely no metal to make it stand out.
Cameron, I am unclear as to where this route is. Can you be a bit more specific? What route is it near? I am unsure that this is indeed a new route, but if it is, there may still be time to include it in the new Flatirons guidebook.
Jason, This route, I believe from our exchanges, was later written up as Off Fence, in Rossiter, 1999. Our first ascent of it was recorded in Climbing magazine No. 101, April 1987, p. 16. (I got the date of our ascent wrong in my original posting but have corrected here.) Next time I'm down I'll try and confirm with an image. Best, Cam (old fart) Oh yeah, if you actually have Climbing No. 101 lying around, take a look at the advertisement on p. 30 of the chick in the Hardman t-shirt. That was my company, and that woman is now my wife. Pretty funny, huh?
Cam - through our emails, I'm positive your route is "Off Fence" and I've dug through ALL the old guidebooks and there is no mention of your route. I'm going to talk to Richard about it, but seeing how there's no FA info accredited to Off Fence in his book, and all the likely "old timers" in the know don't seem to know anything about the route, you may indeed have done the FA. Hard to say with an area such as the Amphitheater, but I'll talk to a few more people including Pat Ament and get back to you.
Jason, thanks. No big deal. I've done hundreds and hundreds of routes I've never reported, from Montana to Idaho to Colorado to NM to Arizona. I guess MProject makes it easier to report them because it's all in one spot.
Jason are you sure this route is where it's pictured in your new guidebook (pg.31 #80)? Starts overhanging on jugs outside the amphitheater next to the trail with a big log/fence post running underneath it? I only bouldered the first few moves but didn't see any real gear. Might be better with just a pad or maybe I'm just totally in the wrong spot? Is there a good piece up higher?
Chris, Yes, this route is essentially a boulder problem without gear. It sounds like you started in the right spot (jug overhang right off the trail). Once you can stand up on the slab, it's a lichenous runout to the ridge without gear at about 40ftish. I remember there being a #1 Camalot placement near the start, but that wouldn't help much once you got going on the slab (5.5 R/X). I'd bring a pad and solo it over racking up personally as once you're at the 15ft mark, the hard part is over. There isn't another good piece until you're off the slab.
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