Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Ridge 1 aka Stairway to Heaven
Show routes:
Select route...
Ariel 
Armed Forces 
Better Than Better Than Love 
Better than Love 
Gunky 
Love 
Stairway to Heaven 

Armed Forces 

5.11b

   

FA: D. Hare & M. O'Donnel, 1986
Type: Sport, Alpine
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Season: Gets sun from mid-morning
Views: 67 page views

Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Nov 4, 2007


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Some of this area is subject to seasonal closures - Ridge 2, 3, & 4 (typically Feb 1- July 31) MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Endurance crimping on consistently good but inobvious holds. Climb up to the first bolt, and hang a long runner on this before the exciting traverse right to the next bolt (5.9+?, R), place another long sling, then head up to the next several bolts, tending slightly left to a 2-bolt anchor. The crux is not that hard, but it is high and requires some enurance to get without a hang.


Location 

Scrmable up to a spot on a small ledge below the first bolt or approach this climb from uphill, scrambling up a short bit of rack, then down and over 20 meters on a sloping ledge to reach the spot below the first bolt (no gear here for a belay).


Protection 

6 clips, some are far between, so heads-up!

The anchor was 2 vertically-aligned bolts with single smash-links and shitty webbing connecting them. The old tat was replaced with a fat, tied sling, and a biner was added and now the anchor is a little more friendly. Still, it would be best if someone took up a few rapid links and chain (about 8" total) and hung the top bolt down to parallel with the second bolt, and added a link to the lower bolt to make it stand of the cliff instead of locking off the rope as it is pulled.