Gunky 

FA:  S. Woodruff, T. Beaman, B. Gilbert, 1975 Type:  Trad, Alpine Consensus:  5.11b [details] Length:  2 pitches, 150 feet Season:  Spring to fall Views: 61 page views Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Nov 4, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

A deceptively hard, boulder problem to a moderate route.
Start from the ground on a few mail slots and power up to a sloper or a shallow pocket before clasping the edge of a crack and flake. Be prepared for the fact that it isn't over yet... setting gear here will be strenuous, and a fall without it ill-advised.
Step up off of the stack of stones which normally sits below this route, or clasp the bomber left jug and hop to the right to get started. No matter which, this was not the crux. Hook a heel hard right on the long slope and work your way up on less-than choice holds to the left-leaning crack above (crux). The existing Flatirons guide lists this at 5.10d, but it seemed a few letter grades harder to me and to my partner.
Once pulled onto vertical terrain, continue up for a short distance, to about the place of the fixed sling for the rap from 'Like Heaven.' Traverse hard right to a spot where you are looking up a long shallow corner into the 'Slot' of the summit of 'Like Heaven.' Find a belay to avoid a drag penalty later. Finish the route as for Slot, climbing up cracks and into and through the clean bomb-bay chimney up top, which is far easier than it looks (5.8) Belay up top and finish on the summit of Like Heaven and rap down.

Location 

Just downhill (right) of the left-facing dihedral at the left edge of the Like Heaven tower, 2 incut slots lie just within reach of the ground, just above those, a slanting flake created a left-leaning crack. This is the start of the route.

Protection 

Rack, a standard rack with long slings added.
From the ground, one could "toss" a hex into the crack above for protection of the crux, which might be a good idea. It appeared that a #7-#9 might be best.