Better Than Better Than Love 

FA:  unknown New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad, Alpine Consensus:  5.6 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 90 feet Season:  Any but winter Views: 101 page views Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Nov 4, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Good clean rock and occasional but solid protection for a good trad leader.
'Better Than Better Than Love' is better than 'Better Than Love', but as it is almost universally accepted that 'Better Than Love' is no better than 'Love,' it should be understood that it is not implied that 'Better Than Better Than Love' is not better than 'Love.'

This particular line starts on a clean face and goes up to a hidden, horizontal, 2" crack, 5 meters up, then past a flake on the left with a tiny pine growing from behind it, then up a short and small right-facing corner, past this to a crack and slab to the top. The crux is encountered just above the tree in a clean corner, but can be escaped by bumping out left onto good face holds.

Location 

Down the hill from the Like Heaven summit there is a clean wall that is less than vertical. Several climbable features are here in solid, clean stone. Perhaps the lack of salient characteristics on this wall are the cause of the undocumented lines here, many of which have must have been climbed even in antiquity.
This climb is perhaps 50 meters downhill from the West face of the Like Heaven summit.

Protection 

A set of hand-sized cams and a few larger nuts or tricams. Place a good directional up top before scrambling uphill 10 meters to a tree with a cordalette and biner to rap. I should have made the cord shorter or longer, but I didn't have a knife or more cord- maybe someone will swap it out.