The Devil's Plaything
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | FKA: Tony Bubb, Jerry Bargo, 10/6/07. (???) |
Page Views: | 1,710 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 6, 2007 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Unlike the approach pitch we took to reach it, this climb sports clean solid rock, excellent movement, and great gear as you would have it for most of the way. Up top, where gear is less frequent (but still solid) the climbing is much easier.
Approach this pitch from below via the route 'Gates Of Hell' or from above, having attained the summit ridge and scrambling into a notch with 2 large trees just above and right of this pitch. A fixed rap (black sling and aluminum ring) is stationed there at the edge... rap in 60' to a ledge and work up and right to the base of this corner.
From the base, where a sling belay can be backed up with small stoppers or tiny cams, move up and place gear from a strenuous stance with odd feet and a good cling side-pull with the right hand... work up on this and crimps to reset a high left foot on the initial section of wall (crux), then work up and into the wide crack. Perfect clean stone will greet you with each move.
At the back of the wide crack, there are good jams and good normal (not wide) gear. Continue for perhaps 70' until the crack ends and you encounter a small ledge below a bulge- place gear and work up and left to go to the summit ridge and work up that for perhaps 30' and belay (now a 130' pitch).
To descend, look down the ridge for perhaps 120' to a notch that is inset 10 deep and set back 10, perhaps 40' long. 2 healthy trees grow here, the one near the edge has a newly refurbished sling and locking biner anchor. Scramble down to the back of the inset and grab huge jugs to climb down onto the ledge and trees to rap. A single 60M rope will get you all the way to the ground. A 50M will get you easily to the ledge where this pitch started, whereupon you can replace/refurbish the station at the base of the pitch and rap again, to the ground.
Approach this pitch from below via the route 'Gates Of Hell' or from above, having attained the summit ridge and scrambling into a notch with 2 large trees just above and right of this pitch. A fixed rap (black sling and aluminum ring) is stationed there at the edge... rap in 60' to a ledge and work up and right to the base of this corner.
From the base, where a sling belay can be backed up with small stoppers or tiny cams, move up and place gear from a strenuous stance with odd feet and a good cling side-pull with the right hand... work up on this and crimps to reset a high left foot on the initial section of wall (crux), then work up and into the wide crack. Perfect clean stone will greet you with each move.
At the back of the wide crack, there are good jams and good normal (not wide) gear. Continue for perhaps 70' until the crack ends and you encounter a small ledge below a bulge- place gear and work up and left to go to the summit ridge and work up that for perhaps 30' and belay (now a 130' pitch).
To descend, look down the ridge for perhaps 120' to a notch that is inset 10 deep and set back 10, perhaps 40' long. 2 healthy trees grow here, the one near the edge has a newly refurbished sling and locking biner anchor. Scramble down to the back of the inset and grab huge jugs to climb down onto the ledge and trees to rap. A single 60M rope will get you all the way to the ground. A 50M will get you easily to the ledge where this pitch started, whereupon you can replace/refurbish the station at the base of the pitch and rap again, to the ground.
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