Off Width Her Head! 

FA:  J. Haas & T. Bubb, 9/22/07. RP: Haas, 11/07. New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.8+ [details] Length:  2 pitches, 120 feet Views: 77 page views Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Oct 1, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

On the north end of the main crag of Sunset Rock, head up perhaps 20 meters until a striking zig-zag offwidth appears. This is 'Off Width Her Head'. This climb comes down to near the ground, stopping a few meters short at a bulge with big chock-stones (solid). Climb the bulge (hand or fist sized cam) and continue to diagonal up and left into an off-width that zig-zags left and right for 60 feet to a good horizontal crack for a good belay stance (large hands to fists).
Belay here and work out a way off and right around an arete (a little runout, but not difficult) and up to a large ledge, where one can get back left to a tree and rap to the ground (fixed anchor here).
This is either a TR, a huge runout, or requires large gear. As of this writing, it has not been lead. We had nothing larger than 4" with us on what would have been a ground-up, onsight, while cleaning, FA. So we TR'd it.

Location 

This is a wide crack on the North end of Sunset Rock, facing a descent gully. A low bulge with chock-stones is capped by a zig-zag offwidth on the left 'Off Width Her Head' and a thin fingercrack on the right 'Shady Character' which diverge after a few feet of climbing.

Protection 

TR from above 'Shady Character' from a set of hand-to-fist-sized cams, or take a load of pro in the 5-8" range and some slings.