Unknown ?? 

FA:  T Bubb, J Haas, J Wood, 9/07 (?) New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.8+ [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Season:  Autumn Views: 53 page views Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Sep 17, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

An interesting route that was better than it looked at first. I believe it has probably seen prior ascents, at least in part as an escape or alternate option to parts of 'Earache My Eye.'
Climb up a mellow corner for perhaps 40 feet to a large, incut ledge, then stand up on a horn of rock and pull over junky-looking, but solid bulge on slopers (crux) to reach jugs and a bomber 2" cam placement. Continue up the second half of the route, a second, left-facing corner past stoppers, cams, locks and jams to reach the top. A good thread up top makes for a good belay point on the right-hand wall. Descend via a heads-up but mellow scramble off- down to the base of Ruby Slipper, and then below.
This climb perhaps would be better with a fixed tie-off and a ring at the top.

Location 

On the Nebel Horn Ridge, this route lies just downhill (south) of Ruby Slipper. There is a pair of shallow, left-facing corners there which extend from ground to summit with a large ledge at mid-height. This route is the left most of them, the right being "Earache My Eye."

Protection 

Rack to 2.5" + cordalette for the tie-off belay up top.