Stone Love 

FA:  unknown to me Type:  Trad Length:  2 pitches, 140 feet Views: 464 page views Submitted By: Tony Bubb on May 15, 2005 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: 'Stone Love (10d, PG-13)' comes up the SW face of ...

Description 

This route is a fabulous route with so-so rock. The real business happens on good solid stone though. The wild position and gymnastic moves are memorable enough to make this a "must do" adventure climb despite of the short section of poor rock before the crux. Locate this climb by hiking to the South side of the Box, just above (west of) the concave wall. There is an obvious hand-to-fist crack rising up though the bottom of the West end to a huge ledge, the first pitch. The second pitch is a crack running out right (southeast), diagonally through a 5-meter roof and overhang.

P1. Climb up the handcrack and belay by slinging a HUGE boulder with your cordalette. When your partner arrives, move the belay behind the same boulder (car sized) and out toward P2.

P2. Climb the crack on P2 and pass the roof to a slab. Once on the slab you can [continue] right to the tree and belay at the tree. Alternately, if your partner is not strong, and you are kind, you will NOT have placed any gear after the crux of the climb and will instead of finishing up right, will climb up and left to a high point over the crux, perhaps 7 meters up (belay on hand-to-fist sized cams). If (s)he pops off, there will be no big swing.

To descend, cross The Box to the North from the tree though a notch. Scramble slightly down, then traverse West to the Base of Aunt Jennifer's Tigers (all 3rd class).

Protection 

Pitch #1 goes on Cams 2" and up. I placed one #2 and one #3 Camalot. Another #3 or a #3.5 would have been nice to have. Pitch #2 goes on a few nuts and small cams to 2"