Shoyu State is a sustained face climb on the South side of the Third Flatiron. This route is really good.
To get there, hike up to start for the the East face routes on the Third Flatiron and solo or simulclimb a long rising traverse to the far South edge of the Flatiron. On our way we passed two of the massive eyebolts, but don't go too high, maybe only 50-100 feet or so above the East Bench. You should be able to located a bolted rap anchor with brand new chains hanging from it. Rap into the "1911 Gully" from here - a fern-filled, isolated area. We just made it down with a 70m rope, but a 60m would probably put you a ramp that could be easily down-climbed. Alternately, you could scramble down the East face about 100 feet further to some large horns with slings and rap from there (this is only a 75 foot rap or so).
Once at the bottom, flake your rope and scramble up the ramp to a bolt below the overhang. Clip this bolt and reach up to good holds and swing up and onto the main face. Climb steep crimps and slopers past seven more bolts and then run it out to the anchor on easy ground. The crux is a 15 foot stretch of climbing that begins at third bolt just right of some obvious pebbles/holds. There's another difficult move just past the last bolt.
By Charles Vernon From: I'm in transition right now Aug 9, 2003
This is indeed an excellent climb, some of the best face climbing I've ever done in fact, and you'll likely have it all to yourself. However, I only remember 7 bolts, with the (sustained and inobvious) crux from 4 to 5. I toproped this after Josh led it and it certainly seemed a bit runout in places, although I noticed several horns that would actually be good protection to sling in between bolts (for wimps like me). Also, considering the quality, this is a good candidate for a re-bolt as the bolts must be near 15 years old.
Approach: possibly the best landmark for the bolt anchor are some large downward pointing flakes on the edge of the face. This is no higher than 50 feet or so above the elevation of eyebolt #2. It's probably also possibly to thrash up into the fern jungle from the Royal Arch trail--watch out for poison ivy.
Just a correction on Charles approach suggestions above. There is no way to hike to the 1911 Gully. In fact, the 1911 Gully is a climb. To enter it from the bottom is probably 5.6 climbing and to exit out the top (a really cool chimney climb) is 5.5 or so.
Third Flatiron
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