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Third Flatiron
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1911 Gully 
Blazing Biners 
College Drop Out aka East Face North Side 
Dog's Head Cutoff 
East Face Left 
Extra Point 
Falcon's Fracture 
Friday's Folly 
Friday's Folly Direct 
Funny Games 
Greenman's Crack 
Inner Sanctum 
Northwest Passage 
Pentaprance 
Ph.D. Roof 
Problem Child 
Right Of Spring 
Saturday's Folly 
Sayonara 
Shoyu State 
South Chimney 
Southwest Chimney 
Standard East Face 
Super Woo 
Thin Crack 
Third Kingdom/Papillion 
Waiting For Columbus 
West Door 
West Face [3rd Flatrion] 
Winky Woo 

Problem Child 

5.9 PG13

   

FA: Brian Rolfson & some punk
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 130 feet
Season: when the ice is too thick to avoid
Views: 157 page views

Submitted By: Leo Paik on Dec 9, 2006


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Playing on huecos galore.


Description 

This is a fun, little pitch that caught the eye of a pair of dufi who thought that A Very Ament Slab might be climbable without crampons in December after a snow storm. This lies on the huecoed south face of the lower cliff seen on p. 200 below route 21 along Approach III in the Flatirons guidebook by R. Rossiter. There’s probably plenty of room for FAs on this cliff band for average blokes or lasses.

It may have been climbed previously. However, no mention of this exists in the Flatirons guidebook or this database.

Stop reading if you don't like beta. Start up an obvious line of little resistance up slightly-overhanging, jugs, huecos, and a tufa of sorts. You can use an orange & yellow Alien before you commit. Then a #3 Camalot fits decently in a hueco for the committing overhang. After 15 ft (the best part), it eases to less than vertical. You can fit a #3.5 Camalot in a hueco above the overhang. Move left to a slot for a #0.75 Camalot. From here, you basically go up easy, neat huecos all the way to the slab edge top of the lower cliff band. You can move left to a natural thread. 130’.

To descend, move left then downclimb a couple overlaps to a rappel tree with 2 slings & a fat mallon ring. The rappel tree is visible in the photo on p. 196 Flatirons guidebook by R. Rossiter. Rappel 80’ to the ground over 2 overhangs. Alternatively, you could go to the top of the gully which puts you near the base of Saturday’s Folly, me thinks.


Location 

On the south side of the Third Flatiron, along the Approach III. It ascends an obvious short overhang to a very huecoed face.


Protection 

Rack a couple medium wires, #9 & 11 hexes, yellow Alien to #3.5 Camalot.