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Achean Pronouncement
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Dangling Fury 
Dark Obsession 
East Face/Achean Pronouncement 
Electric Fountain Crack 
Lingum Direct 
Northeast Arete 
Third Eye 
Yoni 

Yoni 

5.6 PG13

   

FA: unknown, probably solo
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Season: Autumn
Views: 83 page views

Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Nov 26, 2006


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Description 

Fountain Crack and although cleaner and more solid, it is only about 1/2 the length, and thus, not as good. It's also wider for nearly all of its length. Rossiter's book suggests to "jam" it, but other than a chicken wing, arm bar, or heel-toe, one is unlikely to jam this thing at all. The face holds on the right and left provide ample opportunity to avoid practicing O.W. technique at all. I wondered while climbing this if the conspicuous pocket on the left wall was in part a namesake of the route.
Such a short climb in a canyon full of giants is hard-pressed to get a rating better than "good" no matter its quality. Nevertheless, this pitch has some good rock and good moves.


Location 

This route is the wide, low-angle crack between the Lingum's right side and the main wall of the Achean Pronouncement. Approach as for the climb "Electric Fountain Crack"-- a pain in the butt to get to, mostly walking around on loose ground and pine needles on ledges.


Protection 

A #5 Camalot will go in about 1/5 way up. A #6 might go lower or higher. A #4 Camalot protects the second at the very top-- a directional prior to a traverse to the rap anchors.