Fern Canyon

BETA PHOTO: When seen from the South, Fern Canyon reveals its ...

Description 

This is an organizational entry suggested by one our users to help with clarify crag locations for those less familiar. This is a minor gully/canyon on the NE side of Bear Peak in the southern half of the Flatirons. It hosts numberous shorter 1-2 pitch climbs of a moderate to advanced level of difficulty. Its approach and seasonal wildlife closures tend to limit climber visitation. Many crags in this area are often subject to closures from Feb. 1 to July 31. The approach is often 45-60 minutes, although the hike itself is a bonus for the day. Nonetheless, there are some beautiful routes in this area. The great majority of routes here are face climbs. Many routes have a southerly aspect, which permits wonderful climbing on sunny fall & winter days.

Crags accessed from this Fern Canyon Trail include: Nebel Horn Ridge, Onoclea, Pellea, East Ridge, Fiddlehead, The Goose Eggs, The Goose, Mars Block, & Seal Rock. However, for the purpose of this organization, we'll include those crags ordinarily approached from the Fern Canyon trail: Nebel Horn, East Ridge, Onoclea, Pellea, Fiddlehead, The Goose Eggs, & Mars Block.

Some fine routes here include: East Face/S Goose Egg, 5.2 R; East Face/Pellea, 5.5 R; Rad for Rookies, 8; Rainbow Bridge, 9; Fountain of Youth, 10; A Shadow Sickness, 10; Edgemaster, 10; Leprechaun Promenade, 10 R; Everpresent Lane, 10+; Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint, 10+; Ilga Grimpeur, 11; Lightning Bolt Arete, 11; the short but gorgeous Ruby Slipper, 11; Fluorescent Gray, 11 R; Slabmaster, 12-, Exile, 12-; Castles Made of Sand, 12-; Chains of Love, 12; & the controversial but historically significant Superfresh, 12+.

Getting There 

The closest approach is likely from NCAR at the W end of Table Mesa at the south end of Boulder. From here, hike W to the Mesa Trail, go S on the trail down into the Bear Canyon drainage, continue up to the Fern Canyon sign. Ascend this pretty trail to various point at which you wander NW toward the route of choice.

Featured Route For Fern Canyon

Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint 5.10d  CO : Flatirons : Fiddle Head

Ever see the Wild Country ad in late '80s Rock and Ice with Charlie Fowler climbing a cool looking face somewhere in the Flatirons? This is that route, and I had always wanted to do it since I first saw the pic...I feel that this is one of the best Flatirons routes of its grade.Short but sweet! Climb up to the bolt (added after 1st ascent) and move up and left to these jigsaw flakes and place a wire or two. Stand up and place another wire in a so...[more]

Add Photo Photos of Fern Canyon

The Nebel Horn from the north ridge of Bear Peak.