Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July: The Goose Goose Eggs East Ridge Mars Block Nebel Horn Tower of the Moon Jamcrack Spire The Pyramid Incognito Crag Devil's Thumb Shadow Fax Isolation Rock Sunset Wall Devil's Wing (W. Face) The Matron Lost & Found The Sibling Toddler Rock
Jason Haas 2/3 of the way up 'Batman' a good sport...
Description
This sport route is shown in Rossiter's topo on p.68, but does not include a description in the book. It was originally bolted in the 1980s.
Locate the obvious South Face route in a blocky dihedral. Move 20 feet left of this dihedral and locate a bolted line. Scramble up onto a ledge with a small tree to get started. Work up past a bolt to a small roof. Clip a second bolt, then pull over the bulge. Continue up past a 2 more bolts and a lost arrow piton over a lip. Climb an easy but runout slab to a bolted anchor. One of the better sport lines in the Flatirons. Technical, but all the holds are there.
Protection
4 bolts, 1 fixed pin. A blue Alien can marginally back up the fixed pin.
Good climbing, but my partner and I both thought the first pitch of Raging Bull (aka Cub) up the hill was a much better Flatirons sport climb. Also, this route probably deserves at least a PG-13 rating for the run-out from the last bolt to the lip of the wall.
By Aaron Martinuzzi From: Fort Collins, CO Sep 25, 2009 rating: 5.10b R
I'm with Dougald - this runout after the last bolt is pretty significant, and since it's a traverse, could result in a really unpleasant scrape across the face. Additionally, clipping the first bolt requires some solid 9/9+ moves that, if you were to blow them, would result in a really unpleasant fall.
Today, 25-Sept-09, my partner and I cut some bogus tat off the anchors and left a couple of carabiners that can be used to belay-from-above and then rappel - I wouldn't want to belay a TR from the ground off the 'biners.
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