Patty follows Touch Monkey (11b) on Der Zerkle in ...
Description
Another fun little sport climb in the complex Dinosaur Mountain area. This route ascends inviting huecos up a slightly bulging face in the Court, an alcove on the S side of Der Zerkle, a short way past Square Rock. From NCAR, hike up the Mallory Cave Trail until this route is visible on your right.
Power up a fun, slightly overhanging wall with huecos past 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. There is one slightly longer reach mixed in here. Rossiter's guide mentioned a fixed wire that I did not find in situ. Just to the right of this route is another slightly easier, bolted route, Knot Carrot.
Protection
3 QDs for 3 bolts, a wire might be useful, and slings for the anchor.
What a shame that someone is messing with the great sport climbs on Dinosaur Mt. So many good climbs that see so little traffic due to the hike. These are all historically significant climbs. Hopefully, there is such a thing as Karma and the chopper(s) will pay for their actions.
As of Feb. 13th Touch Monkey has been re-equiped with permission from OSMP and thanks to Nate and Terry, the ASCA, FHRC, and everyone else that contributed.
I forgot to mention - with the re-equipping, please remember if you go up now that you may be one of the, if not the, first people to climb this route with the new bolts and anchors. As such you are in a similar position to a 1st ascensionist - so please keep your eyes open and be prepared for the possibility that you may have to add some finishing touches yourself (i.e. - bring a wrench). This is absolutely not to imply that there is any doubt that the re-equipping was not done in the best possible manner - just that this gear is new and as yet completely unused.
The first ring bolt is a scary clip. Quite reachy from an awkward stance. A sling can be put around a small horn about 12 feet up from the ground, though it doesn't do much good if you fall during the first clip.
First bolt (the sketch ring bolt) removed and replaced with a 1/2" by 4-3/4" Anchor Replacement Initiative bolt.
We had trouble finding good rock to drill in there (soft and crystalline), but I got this last bolt to tighten down well enough, though it was exposed a half-centimeter behind it due to the uneven rock.
If the bolt starts to spin or seems sketch, can someone email me through this site, and we'll see about a glue-in? It seemed good to me, and I augured on it to test, though the hanger did rotate a little later when Paul weighted it.
Der Zerkle
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