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The Amphitheater
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2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner 
2nd Pinnacle, Upper East Face Right 
D.A.'s Route 
Dialysis Bag 
Direct North Face 
Direct West Bench [formerly listed as variation] 
Diversion 
East Bench Dihedral 
Finger Crack (onT-Zero) 
First Pinnacle SE Face 
Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) 
Juniper Crack (1st pinacle) 
Left Variation (1st pinnacle) 
Macropsychotic 
McCrumm's Crack (1st pinacle) 
North Face of the West Bench (2nd Pinnacle) 
Northeast Chimney 
Now and Zen 
Pizza Pie Crack 
Red Gully, The 
Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane 
Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) 
Second Pinnacle East Face 
Second Pinnacle South Face 
Shortcut 
Siberian North Face 
Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] 
South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) 
South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) 
Southeast Arete (1st pinnacle) 
T-Zero West Face 
West Bench Dihedral 
West Face (of T-Zero) 

Macropsychotic 

5.5 V-easy

   

FA: unknown, long ago
Type: Trad, Boulder
Consensus: 5.5 V-easy [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 75 feet
Season: any
Views: 326 page views

Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Jul 20, 2006


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This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Gregory Canyon (including The Amphitheatre) page.

BETA PHOTO: The boulder with the widening crack


Description 

This climb is a good route on solid rock. Nice in-cut edges appear one after the other, and a crack offers very good pro at a relatively safe distance from the ground if you are leading. Climb up the face to reach a 1.5 meter section of crack 6m off of the ground. The crack goes from thin to fists over it's length and is the distinguishing feature of the route.
After passing the crack, cling and edge your way up the arete just to the right on solid positive holds until the rock becomes jumbled and broken, then head in on a ledge and finish up the gap/slot/chimney between the Ginseng Pillar and the 2nd Pinnacle. Good route on good rock.


Location 

From the west side of the West bench, continue south through a gap in the rock behind the Ginseng Pillar. Go down and right (south) a few meters, keeping your eye 7 meters up the West Face of the 2nd Pinnacle, looking for a distinguishing split block with a crack in it. The route starts below, goes through, and finishes above this obvious crack.


Protection 

A light standard rack with a few nuts and cams hand-to-fist... I think. I didn't place gear though, as the climb is a good solo (even in approach shoes).