This is another historic and very old route on the Matron, but is not quite as good as the North Face route. Approach the Matron and walk to the very most Easterly of the base. From here, climb one pitch of 5.5 up a ramp that angles from right to left. The pitch is the only semi-difficult one on the route and is very short, about 30 feet. From here, scramble up easy, fun slabs for about 350 feet to the summit. To descend rap off double bolt anchors over the back side.
Protection
This route is typical of many other Flatiron face climbs in that it takes very little pro, but is not really scary. Bring a light rack of nuts and a couple small cams. If you didn't bring a rope for the descent, this climb is preferred for downclimbing over the North face route.
By Mark Oveson From: Louisville, Colorado Aug 8, 2001
The first pitch of this route can be intimidating for a beginning leader, as the first protection is 15-20 feet off the ground. The climbing up to this initial pro is solid 5.5. I have seen one party that was unable to lead this first pitch at all. I'd recommend the North Face route, which is slightly harder but much better protected, for leaders who are intimidated by this climb.
It is possible to climb the entire East Face by starting at the toe of the slab, angling right, and stemming the vertical gully to the small tree. However, I found it very enjoyable to go around the toe slab to the north side, where there is an angling crack system that gains you the very bottom of the east face above the headwall, there is good pro and interesting climbing because of the angles.
Fun climb on solid rock. It is about 350ft from the first tree belay to the notch where the North face joins the route. It is about 200-250ft to the summit from the notch. If you only have a single 60m for the descent, make sure you use the second set of anchors for the 2nd rap. (and rap to the west).
Be careful, the route that Jason suggests may be the 5.9 route "No Stranger to Danger" in Rossiter's book. From below, this looks like an easy route with juggy holds and tons of pro. In reality the "buckets" are thin and slopy with awkward angles and so-so pro (at least to this 5.6-at-the-time leader). One of my buds who was leading 5.7-ish at the time took a fall leading this. He eventually thrashed his way up and I made it clipping his gear, but it was NOT fun.
Warning: don't be mislead by the James Garnett photo into thinking this is the first pitch. The regular way to start this route goes up the righthand skyline or behind it. I think you do turn the top part of the overhang in the area visible in this photo. The start of this route is quite tricky for a 5.5, the easiest line and best holds are not obvious.
The photo does show the start suggested by Jason, I believe. No Stranger to Danger starts right of the East Ridge according to Rossiter and would not be visible in this photo.
The start of this climb can be confusing and here is how I would describe the first pitch: Begin on the north face immediately north of the big overhang in the east face. This is 50-100 feet above the low point of the east face, a shady, dusty area with some big trees. Climb up a steep, tricky face to a large ledge (no pro), then step left across the top of a corner to a strange crack diagonaling up and left which bypasses the main part of the overhang. This crack is polished but at least provides some pro. You now arrive on a nice ledge with only the final short piece of the overhang above you. Move left and place pro behind a huge flake, then crank past the overhang using this flake - you are now on the low angle part of the face. There is a tree just above the overhang (just barely visible in the James Garnett photo), you can belay here or keep going. The entire section from the start of the pitch to the tree is only about 50' long.
Thanks for clarification, George. My mistake was believing the main route description on this page, compounded by my eyeball assessment that the face in my photo "is probably 5.5." Your version corresponds closely to the route description in Rossiter's guidebook. (These problems make me wonder if a higher level of editorial control on climbingboulder.com might not be a good idea....)
George is correct, the start I was warning about ("No Stranger to Danger") is not visible in reference photo. It is farther up the N. face (but not real far) from the start described by George. If I'm right about NStD, it would be easy to mistake it for the standard start described by George (if one didn't have his comments in hand). Looks easy from the ground but isn't.
Wow!! This is a really fantastic route. The quality of rock is excellent. The first pitch if you are of average height is spooky, it took me two moves to reach the nice hold. If you are taller you can reach it in one. I would grade it 5.6 personally. The face is consistent and I thought steep, exposed, and with standard flatiron runouts but we stayed towards the north edge. With the small roofs and steep climbing on the upper part of east face.. it was just plain fun and well worth the hike in.
This is a fun classic line, easy romp to a great FF descent. I'm sure no one will see this comment for years, but why is it that so many of these Flatirons face climbs are just given a grade like 5.5 and no R or X rating? Historical? Certainly many of the classic Flatiron east faces would be considered R or X routes if the difficulty was more severe? just curious
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