This line begins by climbing straight up on left angling rails and a three finger pocket to an enormous hueco. These moves are the first of two cruxes, and are unprotected, so have your belayer spot you through these moves. From the hueco pull up on jugs to gain a ledge and stand up to gain the first bolt. Staying right makes for a more consistent and sustained climb, moving through a series of small edges and horizontal cracks past another bolt to gain a good stance below the overhang (this can be avoided on easier ground by climbing up left on huecos and stepping back right). Second crux: Avoid the overhang by moving out right around a small corner on crimpers, and surging up right (a bit reachy) to more crimpers and a stance above the overhang, and the third bolt. From here its a couple moderate moves up left to gain the anchors. Lower off or top out and walk off to the north.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jul 25, 2002 rating: 5.11c
Skip the 1st section and start on Final Solution and use the last crux to create a moderate 10a.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Sep 9, 2002 rating: 5.11a R
The top felt a little harder than Leo suggested as a 5.10a, but the bottom easier than the given grade of 11c. Going ground up as intended, directly through the first crux (unprotected) was probably 5.11a. The feet are insecure for the first meter of climbing, but then it gets less chancey- hard still, but less chancey.
Did the route on 4-26-03. The top anchors are getting scary! My guess is people have been TR'ing directly through the cold shuts, not on QDs. The shuts are worn half way through and are rusty. Anyone coming up to do the route might think about bringing a couple of cold shuts and a small crescent to replace them.
There is a formal approval process in place with Boulder Open Space and Moutain Parks to replace fixed gear in the Flatirons, which is being taken over by the Flatirons Climbing Council's Fixed Hardware Review Committee (more details to follow in the next few weeks). Gear replacement requests will be reviewed and expedited on a regular basis.
I think it would be helpful to define the terms being used so as to avoid ambiguity. In the trade world of masonry, from which climbers borrowed the technology, the term anchor refers to that portion of the hardware that is directly secured to the rock. It does not refer to anything attached to the anchor, in this case a cold-shut. We climbers are accustomed to referring to the entire get-up as an anchor or bolt, and that's fine. In this instance OSMP draws a distinction between the hanger / cold-shut and the rock anchor / bolt. Nobody is suggesting that the anchor / bolt be modified in any way. One simply has to loosen the nut or bolt, remove and replace the cold shut, and tighten. This is a simple matter of upgrading the hanger / cold shut. Permission is not needed, just beneficence. As a rule of thumb, if you need anything more than a wrench to do the job, get permission from OSMP.
For the record, anyone interested in replacing old gear with new gear in the Flatirons must still contact OSMP directly, not FHRC. OSMP has and will continue to coordinate this effort.
P.S. Hat's off to FCC for their diplomacy and years of persistence. Our kids and grandkids may be the beneficiaries of their fine work!
I am the Chair of the Flatirons Climbing Council, and I believe that Patrick is correct. If it is just a matter of replacing a [hanger], no bureaucracy is required. If the bolt stud in the rock is need of replacement, OSMP must be contacted. They will generally issue a permit that same day. A number of bad bolts have been replaced including on the East Ridge of the Maiden, and Pentaprance on the Third. On another issue, there will be applications for the placement of brand new fixed anchors available in the climbing stores and gyms in the near future. This is a process similar to ACE in Eldo. If approved, these will be the first new fixed anchors placed in the Flatirons since the ban went into effect in 1989. The area open for this includes selected cliffs on Dinosaur Mountain. The applications will have the designated cliffs delineated. While currently limited in scope, it is our hope that the Pilot Project will be deemed successful by OSMP and lead to the opening of other areas in the Flatirons in the future.
Fun route, though it is disappointing that safe harware is not available for someone before the "1st bolt." As well, I don't understand the logic why the 10 to the left had all bolts removed.
The original top anchors (over the top) have been replaced by modern anchors beneath the lip. Clearly, this allows the rope to run better, but we bolted this in the 80s and we weren't so clued in. We didn't bolt the lower bit because it was an established boulder problem that had been climbed many times sans protection. The name stems from a co-worker at Neptune's who kept complaining that "All these sport climbers think they're hot when they're not."
As of April 19 2008, all three protection bolts and anchors (the old ones were horrendous) replaced with new, stainless-steel 1/2-inch hardware thanks to the Anchor Replacement Initiative. Many thanks to all who helped, including Access Fund, Flatirons Climbing Council, and OSMP.
By jarthur From: Westminster, Colorado Oct 4, 2008
Stay true to the route and go direct. Don't bail out by traversing into it from the left. This route is really good if you just stay direct at the start. The hardest move is moving to the left hand pocket before grabbing the hueco at 10-ft. Only a spotter is required.
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