This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Fern Canyon page.
Chris Parks follows up on 'Leprechaun Promenade (1...
Description
This route is located directly on the standard rappel line of the west side of Fiddlehead summit. It was probably climbed as a top rope problem long before bolts appeared.
This is a beautiful face with nice edges, but there is ground fall potential on clipping all three of the bolts. A few small RP's after the 2nd bolt might keep you off the ground. (3 stars as a TR, 2 stars as a sport climb)
A bomber purple Camalot can be placed between the 1st and 2nd bolt in a 1" seam that angles up and right...the further right you place the piece, the higher it will be. A yellow Alien can be placed between the 2nd and 3rd bolt in an obvious pocket. Both gear placements make the climb very safe. The only real danger is making the first clip....
Matt Samet and I replaced all three bolts on this route today 9/1/08 with beefy 1/2" ARI stainless. Please support the ARI if you don't already. Also, this route would benefit from a real bolted anchor up top rather than the shotty slung block on the ledge. My two cents anyway.
Fiddle Head
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