This climb begins with easy moves between incut horizontals, however, once the first bolt is reached your ability to use fingertip crimps and a sidepull off of a flake will be amply tested. The crux sequence is between the 2nd and 4th bolts where the wall is slightly overhanging. Definitely a worthwhile climb while in the area.
Protection
Downhill from the classic Death and Transfiguration is this fun sport route with five bolts that ends at a two bolt rap anchor. An optional 3.5" cam is may be placed in a horizontal before reaching the first bolt.
I thought this route was excellent! Very clean and sharp edges, somewhat perplexing moves at the crux which was between the 3rd and 4th bolts, and really continuous 5.11 climbing for virtually every move between 3rd and 5th bolts! Clipping the 4th bolt is not easy due to the very tenuous stance. Quite sustained at the grade, I thought this was similar in difficulty to Mellow Yellow or Fox Trot or False Prophet in Eldo... might even seem stiff at 11d? If you make the monster hike to do D & T and want some more challenge, you should definitely hop on this one!
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Oct 4, 2005 rating: 5.11d
Both I and my partner found this route to be an interesting combination of possibilities- powerful clings and reaches or intercate balance. He, being the better climber, did it on clever and delicate footwork. I, being the ogre, powered up most of it with the exception of one move that I thought better of not doing so.For that move, remarkably, both of used the same technique on the most interesting part of the climb all-together. The friable flake that both were concerned of breaking off. It was thin and flexing and left us both goose-stepping for balance and wandering how hard this route will get someday when it is gone. Be mindfull of this, though the bolts are close enough to keep you safe, regardless.This route was already leagues harder than Death and Transfiguration.
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO Apr 24, 2007 rating: 5.11c/d
I got of this last year while in the area after climbing D&T. Excellent face with crisp edges. I remember being a little concerned with the old "homemade" hangers. It didn't help much with committing to the moves.