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Eye Of the Storm 

5.9 X

   

FA: Tony Bubb, Taimi Metzlers, Fall 1995
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Length: 2 pitches, 200 feet
Views: 86 page views

Submitted By: Tony Bubb on May 28, 2003


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Description 

This route is obscure and doesn't have much [redeeming] quality. There is not much reason or call to repeat it other than scaring one's nutz off. I am posting it here for anyone who ever wonders... "Has anyone done that thing?" or "What are those slings up there for?" So here you go.

Climb the first pitch of the classic "South Face" of the Maiden to the ledge belay. From there, stirke upward some distance to a sloping ramp that goes up and right. You will be about at the height of the bolt on the third pitch of the South Face. On this ramp head up and left for 60 meters, more or less aiming at the "eye" of the dolphin, as you can imagine the flatiron being, or see drawn in Rossiter's guidebook. There are a few sloping cruxes and a few fixed slings. They are garbage by now, if present at all.

By [divine] providence or the grace of god, may you reach the dolphin's forehead without falling on this line, or find better gear than I did.

The difficulty will depend upon you finding the same line I did- there were other deviant choices with virtue and vice judgements to be made regarding gear and difficulty along the way.


Protection 

Not much. A few nuts and a few tricams are all I can recall. There were long runouts above marginal placements. The fixed slings I left in features are now a decade old. In hindsight, it was litter, but my partner could not follow the route and I ended up leaving them.