Bladder Control 

FA:  unknown, ?C Fowler Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.10b [details] Length:  1 pitch, 70 feet Views: 130 page views Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 25, 2004 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Topo. Yellow is Bladder Control. Green is Though...

Description 

This is an obvious line that lies just R of Thought Control on Stonehenge. It's probably been done before but it isn't in this database. It is suggested on R. Rossiter's topo in Boulder Climbs North. It could be Charlie Fowler's 1980's Measure for Measure. Nonetheless, here's an interesting problem for those who are there and are looking for something else. It can be nearly independent of Thought Control. Yes, it's kinda contrived, but it's fun.

From NCAR, hike to the Mesa Trail to Bear Canyon Trail. Drop down briefly off the trail when you spy Stonehenge in the 3rd strata of Dinosaur Mt along Bear Creek. It's probably best to lead Mountaineer's Route or Thought Control to set a TR up off Thought Control's cold shut anchors for this.

About 10 feet to the R of Thought Control start up an obvious groove with moderate liebacking. Perhaps, even on TR, it's probably best not to fall on the first half of the route. An empty bladder or directional cam at midheight may help for those who cluck. As the groove peters out, you find yourself at the crux as the handholds thin out. Delicately, continue to angle up & L. It eases somewhat after the crux. 70 ft. Enjoy.

Protection 

A toprope is probably safer, but it could be led with a finger-sized cam or two at about midheight (head point) and perhaps a weird Big Bro.