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Discipline 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Hank Caylor and Paul Glover, 1987
Page Views: 5,330
Submitted By: Ted Lanzano on Mar 6, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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  • Description 

    This is classic Flatirons rock climbing. Located on the South Face of the Box, Discipline is one of the most beautiful sport climbs I have ever seen. It also offers some of the best technical face climbing in the Flatirons.

    Start by climbing a thin slab with sharp pockets and crimps to a large hole where you can place an optional #3 or 4 cam (see comments below). Continue through an awkward traverse and then the route becomes slightly overhung and also slightly pumpy. You can rest on several jugs around the 5th bolt, but watch as some of these appeared loose. To clip the chains, you'll need to pull a classic top-out onto the upper slab by pulling on some semi-desperate slopers and small crimps. You may want to stick clip the first bolt, but this is not entirely necessary.

    If you're up for more face climbing, try Cornucopia to the left. This is a very thin and desperate Dale Goddard route set in the 1980s.

    To get to Discipline, park at NCAR and ascend the Mallory Cave trail towards Dinosaur Mountain. Instead of going left up towards Power Bulge, go right (after Der Zerkle) and continue up a moderate incline for about 10 minutes (good cardio warm-up). You'll see the Box on your right.

    Protection 

    6 bolts of climbing to a 2 bolt anchor. A # 3 cam is useful after the 2nd bolt.

    Per Mark Rolofson: a few stoppers (#6-8) before the last bolt can be useful.


    Photos of Discipline Slideshow Add Photo
    Discipline.
    Discipline.
    The obligatory photo.
    The obligatory photo.
    Tarry seeking discipline.
    Tarry seeking discipline.
    Believing is seeing. "There are holds, there ...
    Believing is seeing. "There are holds, there ...
    Moving up to the 4th bolt. Crux monodoigt, definit...
    Moving up to the 4th bolt. Crux monodoigt, definit...
    Balancey moves before an intimidating mantel.
    Balancey moves before an intimidating mantel.
    On the thin crux of Discipline.
    On the thin crux of Discipline.
    Local Curt MacNeill climbing on a beautiful winter...
    Local Curt MacNeill climbing on a beautiful winter...

    Comments on Discipline Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 27, 2004

    I agree, a pretty climb. There are sticks at the base for stick-clipping the first bolt. it's thin up to it, but do-able. The cam is also not critical. the moves up to the anchors are stout, and fun.

    Also note the drilled pipe on the square edge of the large boulder flat behind the belayer. crazy kids...
    By Jim Redo
    Feb 5, 2005

    #3 Camalot.
    By Ted Lanzano
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 20, 2008

    The old ring bolts and anchors have been replaced with half inch, stainless bolts. Still need to patch and camo the old bolt holes, and replace old hardware on Cornucopia. Thanks to ARI, OSMP, Matt, Stan and Greg.
    By Alex Shainman
    From: Boulder, CO
    Dec 9, 2010

    A #3 anything totally does not fit in that slot! I did this today after maybe 15 years and it's definitely a #4 Friend or Camalot! It is easy though....

    Thanks for replacing those bolts, guys!!!
    By adam brink
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 14, 2011
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    The #3 is so flared out that it only might hold. A #4 would be bomber. Stellar climb with an amazing position.
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 30, 2011

    This climb definitely gets 4 stars. It has great position, stellar moves, the most perfect place to just hang out on a flat rock right at the base, and amazing views of Boulder in the backdrop. Classic!! Definitely stick clip the first bolt as many climbers fall at the low crux on the bottom slab. There are some tiny, tiny holds on the bottom slab along with some cool mono pcokets that can be sharp. A cam is NOT necessary for the hueco between second and third bolt as previously mentioned. The hueco is a massive jug, and there is a really good postive crimp up and out right that you can easily get to to clip the third bolt. From here, there are some fun moves with quite a few rests to depump. You can also cop a no hands rest just when you need it right before the upper lip and chains. The top move is really fun and a bit of a deal breaker for a lot of people. Pulling the final lip on a bunch of open handed slopers and slopey crimps will have you feeling the exposure. The key to the final move is throwing your right leg entirely over the lip, humping the lip real hard and then getting some kind of a mantel with part of your body. Everyone seems to use the same beta for the lower crux, for the upper crux my partner and I did it completely different. Rap this route as opposed to lowering due to the slopey upper lip which puts a lot of friction on your rope. Enjoy!!!!
    By Mark Rolofson
    Mar 14, 2013
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    I climbed this route a few times in 1989 & 1990 & revisited it in 2011. It is great route with some thin, fingery climbing past the first 2 bolts. I would have never have considered placing a large cam in the hole between 2nd & 3rd bolts. It easy & juggy here. However, I do recommend bringing a few stoppers (#6-8) to place in a horzontal crack before the last bolt. I have always placed a couple nuts here, since you're above the 5th bolt before making a tricky move to get to the last bolt in the bulge.