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April Fools 

5.11b

   

FA: Will Niccolls, Ike Nicoll, April 1, 1989.
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 357 page views

Submitted By: Una Bonger on Jan 1, 2005


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Tony Bubb starts up 'April Fools (5....


Description 

This sport climb is in the complex Dinosaur Mountain area. Find the Court area on Der Zerkle, where you'll see Touch Monkey and Knot Carrot. April Fools starts about 30 feet up the ramp to the left of Touch Monkey.

The route climbs the overhanging pocketed white and brown face for about 60 feet. Excellent position and climbing.


Protection 

I believe there are 7 protection bolts and a two bolt anchor. When we installed the anchor, we left webbing with a ring to lower from.



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By D. Rivers
Dec 20, 2003

This route is harder than 11b.

By Una Bonger
Dec 29, 2003

It's definitely possible that this route is harder than 11b. Some have said as high as 12a but most I've spoken with believe 11b or 11c.

By the way, the first ascent was on April 1, 1989.

Will

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 13, 2004

I also felt this route to be harder than 11b. significantly more difficult than "Touch Monkey". Albeit pretty good.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 13, 2004

Should this route be classified as closed since it's a hundred feet or so up the Sunnyside 2 ramp?

By david johnson
Mar 18, 2007

AC - this route AND Sunnyside 2 are open during the bat closures.

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
May 10, 2007
rating: 5.11b

April Fool's!?!? What I got to the top and couldn't find the anchor, so April Fool's? Did I just miss it at twilight? Well, going up and left to the top is mellow enough climbing, but it's a 60' runout to the summit! If you fell, you'd deck for sure. So, where are the anchors relative to the last bolt? No up and not left... must be right. I ended up on the summit belaying my second from the ground.
The crux of this route is harder than some of the other 11s in the area.

By Will Niccolls
Aug 3, 2007

Tony, it's possible the anchors are gone now, the last time I was on this route was in the late 90s. But I assure you we put in two bolts at the top. As I remember, you go straight up and slightly left of the last bolt, maybe 20 feet at most above that last one. And though my recollection is vague, I think is that there is a slight trough in the rock that one follows. Certainly not a ground fall, if you went for a 60' runout well then your biggest problem is hauling your giant sac around.