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Southern Dinosaur Egg
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Coming Attractions 
Girls Day Out aka Right Side 
Hatch 
Left Side 
Sneak Preview 

Coming Attractions 

5.10d

   

FA: P. Zoller & E. McKigney
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 30 feet
Views: 65 page views

Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 7, 2003


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Description 

This is a short, fun TR or slightly runout sport climb on the W side of Southern Dinosaur Egg. It is perhaps 35 ft. If you're there, it's worth a run. It can be TR'ed from the same anchor as for Left Side & Girls Day Out. It lies below Sneak Preview.

To approach, consider the Mesa Trail to the Bear Canyon trail. Bushwhacking up the Bear Canyon drainage past Bear Creek Spire is slightly tedious and a fair amount of poison ivy lives down there. Go to Stonehenge (with Thought Control) and angle back E toward Southern Dinosaur Egg.

There has been chalk down and R of the first bolt suggesting a more challenging start. However, the obvious line is to clip the first bolt and face climb to the L to the arête. This variation is likely soft for 5.10d, the rating from Rossiter's Flatiron guide. The crux of this variation lies between the first and second bolts. There is a potential for a ground fall if you fall poorly. The difficulty eases after the second bolt but there is a runout to the third bolt where you would not want to fall. There is a final bolt, which currently does not have a hanger, at the top of the arête.1.35 stars.

To descend, you can downclimb 3rd or 4th class rock to the L.


Protection 

4 bolts (last one is missing a hanger) long slings (at least 48") around the horn + #4 Camalot + wire to slip over the bolt.



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By Doug Redosh
Apr 19, 2004
rating: 5.10a

Short fun, but not 10d.

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 3, 2007

You can also start up stradling the arete and go "belly to the bolts" but that is also not 10d- more like middle 5.12.