This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Fern Canyon page.
Description
This is a very short climb in the dihedral to the right of the climb "Babyback". While short, it is a good climb, and is worth it if you are up there doing the other routes on the East Ridge. Lieback up a short, thin, right-facing dihedral with slippery feet for about 25 feet or so to the top. Since it leans right, the crack somewhat forces you out onto the face for your feet, and some crimpers. Put this one in the "only if it was longer" category!
Protection
Only need a handful of smaller-mid sized gear. There are good placements for a .75 cam, and a #2, and if you are in need, a couple Aliens or smaller stoppers can go in-between.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Sep 23, 2003
Interestingly, Boulder Climbs South lists it as a 5.8, the topo from Best of Boulder lists it as 5.8+, and the most recent Flatirons guide lists it as 5.9. Easier to follow than lead. Nice dimples/scoops on the R face.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Oct 29, 2006 rating: 5.9- PG13
The face down low is dirty and a little runout- the rock may be brittle in spots, so mind he pro you'd get carefully. THe upper half has wonderful pockets and scoops on the right side of the corner, but not enough to make up for the poor lower 1/2 of the climb. 2 stars for the top 30', but only one overall.
RSS Feed
