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Seal Rock
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5.14-

   
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FA: Team Positive (Matt Samet, Steve Dieckhoff, and Strappo Hughes)
New Route: Yes
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.14- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 966 page views

Submitted By: Chris Beh on Sep 14, 2002


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Description 

This is a long (95-foot) toprope problem on the south face of Seal Rock, 30 feet uphill from the base of Primate. It climbs the long, striking chocolate-brown/black streak about 15 feet left of the old anchor bolts at the top of the wall, and is a horribly sustained yet varied pitch. Rigging the route is a huge pain in the ass, but well worth it.

Begin in the right-leaning hand crack/undercling and follow it to its terminus. Traverse left along a diagonal break into a scoop. Hard kneebar/sloper moves take you over a small lip and into the base of the black streak; the climbing increases in difficulty, with a dynamic crux before a decent shake.

From the rest move up and a little left into a black bowl under the bulge, then surmount the bulge via sustained pulls on underclings, embedded pebbles and poor crimpers, finishing at a good bathtub jug at the top of the wall. This route is best attempted with fresh skin and good conditions.

The name refers to a decision to not attempt the route as a lead, not to the anti-abortion stance. The gear is there ... it could be led ... but you might be choosing something other than life were you to fall.


Protection 

One 60-meter rope for toproping. 100-150 feet of static rope and large cams for an anchor. One each Metolius TCUs: grey (#00), purple (#0), blue (#1), yellow (#2), orange, (#3), red (#4), black (#5). Also, two hand-sized cams and a few wired nuts.