By Anonymous Coward Nov 24, 2003
| This problem climbs similar to 'grundel city boy,' also in the satellites, but without the meddling rock behind the climber.
Unfortunately, minutes after the second (or third) ascent, the best starting foot hold blew off. The problem will still go by using a sloping rail under the starting bulge or a very high edge.
Start at a sit by using one of many slick crimp/pinches just around the corner of the left arete and a very fat sloping pinch out right. Slap hard right to a flat oppositional section with a distinct pebbly sweet spot and work straight up using heel hooks and oppositional edges up the blunt arete. Reaching and squeezing seems mandatory. Once situated on the slab at 8ft., cruise the strangely slick and often dirty upper arete to victory.
Although the broken foot hold will likely make the very first move more gut-busting and spanned-out, the rest of the problem remains quite fun and worth the effort.
--j.jaeger |