Looking from the belay inside the arch at me doing...
Description
Bit of an alpinish romp. Some details here may prove useful. This description here was our attempt to follow close to the line described by Rossiter's Flatiron guide.
Approach via Mesa Trail off CO Hwy 170, W of 93. N on Big Bluestem, then cross country. Somewhat hard to find. Get a good bearing on it before you're off in the woods. Once you are in the trees, it becomes harder to spot the flatiron. 3 rocks looked suggestive. Finally, it's higher.
We started about 50 feet L of the nadir of the rock.
P1. Per Rick Blair: Roach has the start a few feet left of the low point at a 3 foot high roof then angel up right to a big tree about 120 feet up, it goes 5.6, is steep for the Flatirons and quite run out.
Alternatively: Up a ramp 220 ft to a tree on a ledge. Light pro. Could be split into 2 pitches but belay stances were less obvious.
P2. From this ledge, you can go up a bowl, loop a flake, sling a tree, up to a tree, 170 ft.
P3. Up R across a slab to a chimney/slot, 60 ft. Belay somewhat au cheval.
P4. You can go up R to the edge but it may be better up middle of slab. 200+ ft. #4 Camalot useful.
P5. Up & traverse L , up a middle rib, to a ledge on the R. 190 ft. 2 wireds + #2 Camalot.
P6. Go up a rib & down, thru arch (airy) from R to L. Pull on a block, up a finger rail to the top. 80 ft.
This climb is quite easy up until the last pitch or so. The last pitch is quite wild and memorable. From inside the arch, you are tempted to tug on a loose block to exit onto the ramp. It is not clear exactly what is holding this block in place, so be careful!
The start in the description above was obvious but not the same as what Roach has in his book. Roach has the start a few feet left of the low point at a 3 foot high roof then angel up right to a big tree about 120 feet up, it goes 5.6, is steep for the Flatirons and quite run out.
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