Will Clopton leading out on "Identity Theft", Shan...
Description
This is the line shown in Rossiter's guidebooks as the "South Face." Consensus seems to be that the "real" South Face is the excellent double-crack system about 50 feet to the right. But this is a decent route in its own right, with both 5.4 and 5.7 options. Start just right of an obvious left-facing corner with a roof, and climb easily up face holds and cracks for about 100 feet. At a good ledge, you can traverse right to reach an anchor. (If you do this, the route is very well protected and about 5.4.) Or, continue straight up on interesting crack climbing and fin holds (about 5.7+). The straight-up line is adequately protected, but the gear is a bit tough to get -- don't send a 5.7 leader at his limit up it. From the top, either downclimb 4th class rock for about 50 feet to reach a rap anchor (125 foot rappel), or carry on to the summit.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 13, 2003
With a 60m rope, you can do the 5.4 start, the 5.7+ fin stuff, downclimb to the anchor 125 ft off the deck all in one pitch. Rope drag is not bad. Nice wire placement at the top of the 5.7+ bit.
A good route. Just don't advise sending up a "5.4" climber by accident and expect them to have a good time. The photo in Rossiter's guide shows this climb as the standard south face route. But a great climb.
I did this a few years ago, also off target. I found the pro marginal and sparse. I broke off a sizable hold on the fin bit, backed off, and bailed right. A fall on this route could be very serious. We found evidence of recent large rockfall in this area (winter, 2001 (?). Test your holds.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Apr 1, 2004 rating: 5.5
I did this one this morning, having forgotten all about Rositer's booboo, thinking I was doing the S. Face.The direct finish up top didn't seem hard, but I cast a suspicious eye upon some cracked and broken or brittle- feeling holds. Too many hollow responses from knocks to be soloed with comfort, so I elected to take the right hand 'escape' about 6 feet over and then up a second crack.Done this way, the crux was a good pair of hand jams just below a crow's next (no crows home).
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