Some of this area is subject to seasonal closures - Ridge 2, 3, & 4 (typically Feb 1- July 31) MORE INFO >>>
Ridge 1 is not subject to closure. Note, the area is rather full of poison ivy, for those who are sensitive. Also, there are bears & mountain lions known to habit these parts.
Tony Bubb approaches the second crux of Burger Mad...
Description
Once you reach the "Satan's Slab" of Ridge 2 of Skunk Canyon, hike and scamble further west to its back side, going north of a boulder that chokes the stream. After perhaps 100 yards, you can turn right and hike up the back side fo this ridge. The rock is junky and blocked by huge roofs at first, but it gets better as you go up. You will pass several bolted lines, and then after as much as 400 yards of walking, you will come to an area where the gully between the 2nd and 3rd ridge becomes narrow. A branch in the gully from this point runs up and right, cutting through the 2nd ridge. Just below this in the main gully, an big dead pine stump, less most of its branches, is snapped off about 30' off of the ground. (that tree has since fallen) This is near the base of the climb, "Burger Madness."
Waypoint: N39 58.731 W105 17.533
Look up on the back of Ridge 2 from the base of the dead, broken pine trunk and see a 4" crack, some 10' off the ground. This section is only long enough for one gear placement on which to protect the overhang it cuts through. From there, there are some thin-fingers and edges to climb to an OW-Fist-hand crack, perhaps 40' off of the ground. The OW has nearby jugs and stemming and so no real OW technique is necessary for an ascent. There is also a crack within the crack which makes this protectable with a 3-3.5" cam (wide hands to fist). Climb up this and grab some jugs and undeclings to beat the bulge before establishing yourslef of the taipering crack. Climb a little more to a tiny pine tree, where you can either dodge right (as done on lead on the FA) or climb "through it" as was done by the second. Easier ground with sparse pro leads to a broken ledge, after 60-70' of climbing, in all.
Belay from a sling on a huge corner up and to climber's left, and good stoppers in a "niche" up and to climber's right.
The route has seen a "prelininary" cleaning but is still lichened at the top. More cleaning/brushing would be good. The moves are stellar, and the route is reasonably protected. I rated this 5.10 to allow for your interpretation. It felt like a solid traditional 5.10a to me, although it is harder than several 5.10c routes I have done in the flats. Your mileage may vary.
To descend, scramble down and to climber's right to the trunk of a massive pine tree. Lower off of the anchor, which is presently bomber- rope, webbing and rings. Watch out for a large flake just above the tree and for the poison ivy which fills the gully below.
Protection
On the FA: one #10 hex to protect the opening moves (to save my big cam for the crux) a #3 stopper behind it for backup. Then a #7 stopper before arriving at the main crack- the main crack was protected on a #3.5, and #4 Camalot. The #4 was very near the #3.5 and was not necessary. A #3 or #2 is placed high (#2 is higher, and better).
Rack I would take next time: after cleaning the dirt from the fingerlocks above the opening overhang, it became obvious that several small TCUs would be bomber. Take the following: Camalots #2-4 (including 3.5) but place the #4 in the opinging move. TCUs from tiny to first knuckle. 1 set of stoppers. The top belay was good by slinging a huge boulder with a 20' cordalette and a few #8-10 DMM Wallnuts (large nuts).
Ridge 2 aka Satan's Slab
RSS Feed
