Mark Oveson climbing the face below the dihedral, ...
Description
Also known as "East Face Right", this is probably the easiest route on Schmoe's Nose. This route ascends the narrow east face, and then climbs a dihedral right (north) of the "nose", climbing a short overhang to the bridge of the nose and then on up the upper east face to the top.
The bottom of the east face is not well defined and contains many trees. You can start from the bottom or bushwhack up north of the face and get on the rock higher up. From the highest trees on the face, climb a crack near the right side of the face. Getting into the dihedral of the nose is tricky route finding and somewhat runout.
In the dihedral is a series of three stacked blocks, called "the boogers". There is a piton to the right of the first one, and the cracks on either side offer great pro, but this entire area is a bit spooky as it's not clear what is holding the entire mass in place. Crank past the top overhanging booger and squeeze into a slot past it onto a giant belay ledge. You can reach this spot from the highest trees with a 60m rope.
The final pitch is much easier, step over a small overhang and run up the low angle face. Standard Flatiron fare, including a lack of protection. Belay on the summit. See the rock description for the descent.
If this route was closer to the trails it would be a major attraction. As it is today, it seats in a part of the mountain that most Flatiron hikers and climber are unlikely to visit... ever...
The route is way cool, steeper than most Flatirons, requiring a cool layback and some overhang cranking. Unfortunately lack of traffic has allowed a healthy crop of lichen to mature since the 1960's it's my guess...
I did a variation on this route. Instead of going left into the dihedral, I stayed out on the north-east edge until I reached a loose piton at the top. I backed the piton up with a cam and traversed left under the roof. I would rate this variation at 5.7 for shorter people.
I recommend approaching and descending by the well established trail to the south of the Fifth Flatiron.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO May 23, 2004 rating: 5.7+
From a quality perspective, the route is better if you stay left for the bottom part of the route. Less dirt, munge and lichen. From a difficulty perspective, I think that the crack/corner going over the "boogers" is pretty hard for 5.6. I'd give it 5.7+ or harder. It is pretty darn physical and might be hardest for "big boned" people who can't fit through the first slot and have to go up and over. Lastly, this is a longer route than appearances give. I think the best way to do it is a pitch the the large tree at the center of the face, a pitch up to and through the corner at the bulge (over the boogers) and then a pitch to the top. Each of these will be quite a bit more than a 1/2 rope length. PS- take a few large cams (3" +) for the belay above the boogers.
What a cool climb, a bit steep for 5.6, but it's a short section. Also, be careful when climbing the steep section. The blocks are big and loose. There are jugs to the left of those blocks that are a little hard to reach but way safer than pulling on those "boogers!"
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