"Billy Goat Arete" is the arete on the north edge of the east face of Hillbilly Rock. It could also be called the Northeast Arete. I spotted this line today and it is a fun climb, but it is not in any guidebook. There is a crack about 3-4' left of the arete that makes for great holds and also pro. This would be an excellent first lead for a beginner, because unlike most Flatiron routes there is quite a bit of pro available. You can get some good practice placing gear in cracks.
This climb is about 200' long. Start at the base of the ridge and head up, staying just left of the Arete. About 20' up you will reach the crack, which is generally finger sized. Continue up excellent rock to the top which was draped with slings. The fact that there was chalk in the crack shows this route is somewhat popular.
Descend by either rapping 60' north off the summit, or downclimb the North Face route.
When I saw how nice this crack looked from the ground, I had to run up it just for fun. It seems to be the most aesthetic line on the crag. Was much easier than the downclimb.
By Scott Edlin From: boulder, co Jun 25, 2006 rating: 5.1
Worth one star only because it protects far better than any other east face Flatiron climb I've been on. Two pitches with an obvious large belay ledge, mediocre rock, and poor descent options.
I begin this route about 20 feet up from the base on the north side and used all of a 60m rope to top out. I lowered my partner down the north side and then self-rappelled off a big west pointing horn. It didn't seem too dicey, but I will remember to pack webbing and rap rings to leave behind on every climb from now on.
Hillbilly Rock
RSS Feed
