This route ascends the southern edge of the East face, just right of the Gully/Dihedral that splits the face.
P-1 Start at on the low point of the rock and work up some easy but unprotected slabs for some 30 feet. From here traverse left towards a bulge and protect before moving left of the bulge and into a large gully. The gully's entrance is the crux and is water polished. Protection is available but you need to be creative and look for it. Below and left of the entrance to the gully you will see at least a couple of bolts from an old aid line leading into the gully from the South. Climb up the gully on easier ground and belay when you run out the rope
P-2 Exit the gully by overcoming a small roof with a 5 inch crack but great hand and footholds (5.2?). Work up and left and belay right of the small summit block (not pro at the summit).
Descent: Downclimb a steep and exciting crack system to the west (5.0) for some 40 feet.
George is right, you can lead the route in one pitch with a 50M rope, but your second will be required to simulclimb some 30 feet to allow you to reach the belay spot.
RSS Feed
