Mark Oveson a hundred feet up Diagonal, The Slab (...
Description
This is one of the longest routes near Boulder, especially if you go all the way to the summit of the Slab. However, much of it is 3rd or 4th class.
Begin at the far right side of the slab. This is the only place where the approach trail passes within a few feet of the base of The Slab. A few hundred feet up you can see a wild wing-like flake jutting out over the northeast arete.
The route goes up the the east face, staying within 100' of the northeast arete. Near the wing-like flake, the easiest option is to follow a ramp left until you can get over a steep section. It is also possible to climb closer to the arete, or even go under the wing-like flake (5.5).
Once you reach the ridgecrest between the east and west faces, the climbing becomes much easier. Follow this crest for quite a distance (many pitches if roped). You will pass a gnarled tree marking the end of the routes "Left 'N Up" and "Syzygy". Beyond this follow a narrow arete past a troublesome tree and make a scary step down while hanging off great holds on the crest. Right after this, look for the downclimb to the west, look for a wild flake sticking out that you lower over and step onto (despite appearances, the flake is quite solid). Alternatively, climb 20' farther and then down a dead tree leaning up against the west face.
The summit actually lies many pitches farther. If you wish to reach it, follow the ridge until it ends in hiking terrain (however, The Slab itself is a continuous piece or rock below and east of you). Hike up and left, and get into a weird gully that diagonals left below a headwall. Climb through this headwall with a short 5.0 move, then wander up to the thumb-like summit. This summit can be reached either from the east (exposed 5.2) or west (4th class), and has a great view of the Devil's Thumb and Sphinx to the south. This summit is higher than The Goose.
Note that the "troublesome tree" mentioned in my description is the green pine tree in front of the dead tree (lower portion out of photo can be used for descent) in the above photo.
Also, be aware that the downclimb with the scary flake is probably the hardest move on the route.
Great description, George. We did this route as an after-work scramble this week. Excellent rock, long climb. We continued on to the true summit. The climbing becomes discontinuous and dirty but the summit block is cool.
To descend from the summit, contour around the west side of the Slab to the north, then east until you gain the base of the climb.
Good god, DO NOT solo this route when there is still a substantial amount of snow on the ground. You'll be climbing up a wet slab, only to be faced with snow, ice and water on the ridge traverse. Trust me, I know - I'm the idiot that found this out the hard way today. If you see me on the street, please smack me for being stupid. Thanks.
The Slab
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