The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July: Ridge Two Ridge Three Ridge Four Achaen Prnouncement Argonaut Dreadnought North Ridge Bear Creek Spire
All East Face routes on the following formations are closed 1 April to 1 October (routes on the North, South & West Faces remain open): The Hand Mallory Flatironette Shark's Fin Finger Flatiron
The following routes on Der Zerkle are closed from 1 April to 1 September: Sunnyside One East Face Left East Face Right
This route is on the south face of The Hand, just to the (climber's) right of Rock Atrocity on the very overhung southwest face and to the left of another slightly easier bolted line.
Power Bulge is an excellent, technical, powerful route. The wall gets good sun, making this a good winter location to climb (if the trails getting there are not too snowed under). After a series of strenuous but not-too-difficult moves, the climber is faced with a thin crux at the bulge involving something of a reach on fairly small holds. I found the body position for setting up this move crucial to success, and the footwork equally as important as was finger strength. The final wall is sustained, crimpy, but should not prove to be a show-stopper on the redpoint (or flash). Of the eight or so routes on this wall, Power Bulge is certainly the best (on Rock Atrocity and several others, rock quality is a bit questionable). The 5.11 to the right has fun heuco climbing, maybe 2 stars. To the left is a flake with a bolt and several fixed pins, a strenuous but somewhat unrewarding 5.11 pitch (1 star). The corrider left yields several good routes and a couple real stinkers- one with poor anchors to boot. These climbs get good afternoon sun. And of course the Drugs wall just south has a crimpy 5.10 and 5.11 route or two worth doing. A nice hang. A good day can be had by starting in lower Bear Canyon on Thought Control, Sneak Preview, Hot Spit etc, then wandering up the gully to the Drugs and Power Bulge Walls. Someone could do big community service by removing the stray bolt just left of Power Bulge, and filling in that hole and the obviuos hole right next to it.
By Zed From: Gotham City Jul 16, 2005 rating: 5.12c
I'm pretty sure that this is Hank Caylor's route. It is a Front Range classic, and worth the hike. Watch out for the Poison Ivy.
I've heard that there are severe issues with many Dinosaur Mtn sport routes. Some unintentional illegality and thus possible access issues here. There were some hints of this on cb.com, but many of those comments have been deleted, and the full extent of the issue was never fully disclosed. I would have thought this would have been cleared up by now... perhaps now is the time, folks?
From what I could tell they were older (original?) hangers and it didn't look like any of them had been chopped, but I wasn't inspecting them with that in mind.
I was up there this morning and, to me, it looks like Power Bulge was never chopped. That is, unless someone had a stash of vintage hangers and ring bolts that they used to "restore" this route. In that same area, Street Hassle, Back in Slacks, and Drugs, however, all have brand new hardware.
By Hank Caylor Administrator From: Left Hand Canyon, CO Mar 30, 2008
Samet, how dare you and your ilk re-bolt my 20 year old, anciently protected, bolted when I was in High School, 45' tall, a full page Sportiva ad with a totally ripped off route name without permission.......Thanx bro! If any maintenence help is needed, give a call. See ya on the 6th.
Thanks to Matt Samet for taking the initiative, the time, and expense to replace old hardware. I rate this climb as one of the best at the grade that I have done. Now I have another reason to return to Dinosaur Mtn. I hope the anchor/bolt renewal continues, as there are numerous gems up there! Young Doug.
All right, so what's up with the tree? The tree below this route is slowly but surely creeping closer. Two friends of mine took whippers into it on Saturday...yikes! I wanted to just chop 4-6ft off the top, but they wouldn't have it.
What is the protocol for this sort if issue in the Flatirons? Is there a tree chopping initiative proposal?
It's only a matter of time before the route is un-climbable because of said tree. Thoughts?
The lichen streaked bulge is fun. A lot of business for 40 feet of climbing (70 ft? I once caught a fish that was 80 feet.) Clean falls, too. That tree must have crept back a few feet again.