If you're in the climbing game for spectacular position, good pro and interesting climbing then this climb is a winner. Add in the lack of crowds (or people at all), beautifully colored rock, and an abundance of good climbing near-by and this climb should be on your "someday" list. The draw backs? Seasonal wildlife closures for half the year (February 1 - July 31st typically), and an arduous approach (like 1 hour and a half with a full pack, that is if you know where to find this climb. Expect a longer approach if this is your first time). There are no "trails" to this area - just social/wildlife paths once you leave the Fern Canyon trail.
The Fountain of Youth is located on the third major arete (from the top) in the area known as the Dihedrals on the East Ridge. Begin with the same crack as the Knack (see that route description). Climb the best part of the Knack (the flip-flop corner) and arrive at a shelf above a wide crack (your #4 is now below your feet). The bolts on the arete to your right are your goal. To reach the first bolt, traverse out a horizontal crack which will take a great small tri-cam. Climb up past two more bolts, along the face left of the arete. The crux is a tricky move up the arete itself at the last bolt. Awesome position and delicate climbing along the arete.
Rap from a two bolt anchor at the top.
Protection
1 set stoppers, a #4 or the like, small tri-cams, 3 QDs to a two bolt anchor.
You can leave the big cam behind--the wide crack is very easy. I used a #1/red Camalot on the 5.6, and yellow and green Aliens for the traverse to the first bolt (no tricams). I placed a #0.75/green Camalot about a foot above the first bolt (the trad in me). The crux for me was definitely at the last bolt. It was hard hanging out there to figure the move. After various false starts, I found what worked for me, and it wasn't all that bad after all.
Yikes! The anchor at the top of FOY is in poor condition. One bolt moves in its hole just by poking at it a bit. The other bolt seems solid but is fairly rusted and BOTH hangers flex uncomfortably under body weight.
EDIT: Problem solved thanks to Jason, Matt, ASCA and ARI!
Matt Samet and I replaced the cold shut anchor and bolts on this route today 9/1/08. The route bolts were with ASCA hardware and the anchor/chains from the ARI. Please support them if you don't already. Glad the two agencies are working so well together :)
Oxley and I did this route back in the early '90s, and had a great time. I remember topping out on the ridge crest, and finding a peregrin sitting on a dead tree not far from my position. Needless to say he was very upset at my intrusion, and proceeded to let me know by continual complaints as I belayed Kevin up! A very nice route. There is a good spot for a bivy near the top of the ridge if you have the time and desire...Mallory Cave is another, and affords a cool view of Boulder at night. Bring the Sheaf Stout!
By Clint Locks From: Boulder Oct 25, 2008 rating: 5.11a/b
A couple of key holds have come off at the first bolt, (quite recently) as well as a flake at the second. As a result, this climb is now much harder than 10b.
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