This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Fern Canyon page.
BETA PHOTO
Description
If you're in the climbing game for spectacular position, good pro and interesting climbing then this climb is a winner. Add in the lack of crowds (or people at all), beautifully colored rock, and an abundance of good climbing near-by and this climb should be on your "someday" list. The draw backs? Seasonal wildlife closures for half the year (February 1 - July 31st typically), and an arduous approach (like 1 hour and a half with a full pack, that is if you know where to find this climb. Expect a longer approach if this is your first time). There are no "trails" to this area - just social/wildlife paths once you leave the Fern Canyon trail.
The Fountain of Youth is located on the third major arete (from the top) in the area known as the Dihedrals on the East Ridge. Begin with the same crack as the Knack (see that route description). Climb the best part of the Knack (the flip-flop corner) and arrive at a shelf above a wide crack (your #4 is now below your feet). The bolts on the arete to your right are your goal. To reach the first bolt, traverse out a horizontal crack which will take a great small tri-cam. Climb up past two more bolts, along the face left of the arete. The crux is a tricky move up the arete itself at the last bolt. Awesome position and delicate climbing along the arete.
Rap from a two bolt anchor at the top.
Protection
1 set stoppers, a #4 or the like, small tri-cams, 3 QDs to a two bolt anchor.
You can leave the big cam behind--the wide crack is very easy. I used a #1/red Camalot on the 5.6, and yellow and green Aliens for the traverse to the first bolt (no tricams). I placed a #0.75/green Camalot about a foot above the first bolt (the trad in me). The crux for me was definitely at the last bolt. It was hard hanging out there to figure the move. After various false starts, I found what worked for me, and it wasn't all that bad after all.
East Ridge
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