This is a fun route and a nice alternative to Fandango when the First is crowded. It starts a couple of switchbacks up the 1st Flatiron descent trail from the start of Fandango at the base of a pleasant alcove. You can recognize the start of the route by a long, purple-ish slab capped by a black, licheny roof band. A tree over the roof band usually sports rappel slings.
Climb the slab to the roof, which you can either turn directly (5.7 s) or by stepping right. Belay at the tree.
Two to three easier pitches lead to the base of another roof band, which comprises the crux. Either breach this roof on the right at a fixed pin (5.8) or via a groove and hand crack on the left (more exposed, 5.8+). The slab above this roof is studded with small trees and somewhat dirty. The best rock seems to be on the left.
Realm up to the ridge, which you then follow to the summit. This route is about 5-6 pitches long.
Protection
Your standard Flatiron's rack, with an emphasis on mid-range cams and long slings for the belays.
After nixing the Direct (too long for my friend Patrik to be sure of making his flight) we were looking for Baker's, but I'm pretty sure we ended up on this. I set an exciting anchor using an actual knotted sling in a finger pocket that spit out all other pro, and was pumped to lead through the chimney on the left hand side of the second roof. Awesome morning! Next time I'd start higher on the easy slab at the base so that I didn't have to belay from the first skinny tree at the bottom of the cool water streak (Bonsai Garden?). Anchoring P1 from the big honking tree at 62 Meters would have gotten me right up under the roof for the top of P2.
First Flatiron
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