Dog's Head Cutoff 

FA:  Unknown Type:  Trad Views: 349 page views Submitted By: Warren Teissier on Oct 13, 2001 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>> The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July: First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Flatiron Queen Anne's Head WC Fields Pinnacle The Ghetto East Ironing Board West Ironing Board The Fin Green Thumb Jaws Details http://www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&>>>>> Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Flatirons Climbing Council Preserving climbing access in the Flatirons

Warren Teissier starting the E. Face traverse towa...

Description 

This short but exposed route enables you to reach the top of the Dog's Head from the bottom of the Slip Slide ledge (top of the South West chimney).

This is a really cool route but is unprotected and traverses a portion of rotten rock. Due to the traversing nature of the route and the fact that you traverse to the right (above the bottom of slip slide ledge), a fall could have serious consequences, even if the one piece holds...

Begin some 40 feet up the Slip Slide ledge, under a fierce overhang.

Scramble to the lip on the South side of the Slip Slide ledge and bridge the overhang by reaching up to a one foot solution hole above the overhang. The hold is great and will enable you to climb up the overhang and onto the shallow ramp that runs above the overhang.

Traverse right (down) the rotten ramp for some 10 feet find a cam placement at your feet, take a deep breath and traverse onto the steep East face for 30 feet and onto a huge chockstone near the top of the Dog's Head.

From here you can continue to the top...

Protection 

An Orange Allien (or similar cam) is the only placement for the whole route