Koyannislotsqi 

FA:  Matt Samet New Route:  Yes Type:  Boulder Views: 167 page views Submitted By: msamet on Oct 23, 2001 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Paul Glover on Koyannislotsqi, V4

Description 

Koyannislotsqi, or "Slot out of Balance," is destined for mega-classic status, given both the awe-inspiring length of the problem (25 feet) and the super-kind half hour uphill approach. Take a number, cuz' this is as good as it gets :)

OK. If you're up at the Compound and you want something else to do, or you want to traverse left to right for a change, this is an option. It climbs to the very tip of the fin at the top of the Compound Rib, and is commonly jumped off as part of the standard East Face route.

Start low and left, sitting on the slab with your hands in some good buckets. Reel right on big incut ears, pimp across the sloping lip then bearhug and slap your way out the jutting fin. Tres, tres classique!

Protection 

A crash pad.