Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Fiddle Head
Show routes:
Select route...
A Shadow Sickness 
Castles Made of Sand 
Chains of Love 
East Face/Fiddle Head 
Fertile Crescent. 
Irish Spring 
Leprechaun Promenade 
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint 
Unknown Dihedral 

Castles Made of Sand 

5.12a

   

FA: Michael Brothers, 1988
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 366 page views

Submitted By: Alex on Oct 28, 2001


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Fern Canyon page.

anchors on Castles Made of Sand that could use rep...


Description 

Castles is the amazing looking flat face/arete first seen when one walks toward the lower East Ridge from the main trail...Crank up the dihedral and balance through some wild, tweaky moves to the arete and a tough third clip. Do a powerful move off the arete, back onto the face and set up for yet another tricky move past flakes to the anchor.

Very fine!

There are hard, yet elegant moves at and past each bolt with potential for some hairy falls! At least one good climber has been hurt on this one...


Protection 

Big nut at start, 4 bolts, 2 bolt/fixed wires and biners lower off (kind of sketchy! too cheap for hangers!!).



Add Comment Comments on Castles Made of Sand
Show which comments
By doak
Oct 1, 2007

Great climb! I thought the bolts were well placed... the cruxes were well protected and the runout bits were easier. The anchor at the top seemed pretty reasonable: the cables were in good shape and there were washers and glue keeping them in place.