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Exile 

5.12a/b

   

FA: Brett Ruckman et al
Type: Sport
Views: 292 page views

Submitted By: Alex on Oct 28, 2001


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This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Fern Canyon page.

Description 

Locate the gap between Fiddle Head and the Upper Ridge and check out the east facing wall, this is Exile...Four bolts ascend the steep slab start on rock that, at first inspection, appears to be totally devoid of holds. Once at the third bolt you will realize that its only mostly devoid of holds. Do a trick reach move, clip bolt 4 and shake out at the rest(11c). Power up through the next 2 bolts (crux) clip the pin and go to the anchor...Bad rope drag when lowering!!!


Protection 

6 bolts, 1 peg, .5 Tri Cam (or equivelant optional between #4+5), 2 bolt anchor (set way far back).