This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Fern Canyon page.
BETA PHOTO
Description
As one descends the upper ridge from the top, the Dihedral area of the East Ridge grows in height and intensity. There are a few short pitches of moderate and mediocre quality near the top, but the quality improves greatly with The Knack, a crack climb that ascends the prominent dihedral between the second and third major aretes.
Just to the right of a steep broken area and under the slightly overhanging second major arete, the Knack begins in a left facing corner with an easy crack. Practice those stopper placements and gain a large ledge system. The crack continues steeply above and the crux is encountered where it "flip-flops" from left to right facing. It looks difficult from the ground but once upon the flip-flop, killer jams and lovely stopper placements ease your anxiety. Step out right onto a convenient pebble on the face and use nice finger jams to gain a sloping ledge. This is the best of the Knack. A #4 in the easy crack above will make the next couple of moves very safe, then head straight up the dihedral to the second crux, more finger jams, which are well protected with small stoppers.
At the top, go right and rap from the two ring anchor for Fountain of Youth.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Oct 4, 2004 rating: 5.8
This sandbag takes the title for "hardest 5.6 around" away from WonderLust at the Veil, in Eldo. Good climb though. 1* overall, or maybe 2*'s for this crag.
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