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Balance in Nature 

V5

   

FA: unknown
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V6- [details]
Views: 506 page views

Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Sep 25, 2001


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Jim giving the problem the ol' evil eye...


Description 

This problem is located on the North side of the BBC boulder in the main Satelite area. The north side of the boulder is just ever-so-slightly overhanging, and has many small crimpy problems. 'Balance in Nature' starts on the very chalked undercling in the small left-facing dihedral towards the left end of the wall. Bump up to some shallow crimps, then make a couple of longer moves to better crimps, and go for the top.

This one is definitely easier for taller folk, but has enough intermediate holds to make it fun for everyone.


Protection 

A pad and a spotter.



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By Chip Phillips
Jun 28, 2002
rating: V6

Not V5 unless majorly sandbagged. More like V7.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 28, 2002

V5 seems right to me. I can't climb any harder than V5 and I can do it fairly consistently therefore, due to my ineptitude, it must be V5.

By msamet
Jun 28, 2002

Just to add to the confusion, when I was first introduced to this problem about 5 years ago it was called "Dialing Deftones" and was rated V6. I bet it was done prior to that as well, and it was probably rated B1.

By Chip Phillips
Jul 4, 2002
rating: V6

I knew if I through down the "sandbagged" card, I'd get a response. Anyway, in my opinion, its really gnarly for V5. Comparing it to other problems in the Lower Satellites, its harder than Aerogel V5, The Hard Traverse V5, Bart's V6? sds problem on the Girlfriend Boulder, the V7 sds problem on the Girlfriend's backside (east), Zero G V5 and Re-Entry Burn V5. PB called it V7 ... hell he may have gotten the grade and the name wrong according to Matt's post, so whatever. No offense intended, I just think its harder than V5.

By Adam Hicks`
Jul 22, 2003

Hell, I even thought it felt hard for V6, but I'll give it V6 in my book. I can usually send a V6 if the moves are right for me, and I haven't sent this piece of work yet. I've sent, as has Chip, V7's harder FOR ME.

By Travis Poor
May 3, 2006

I did this problem the other day, and being kind of tall (6'1) I was able to reach the top left crimp without having to move my feet up. Without having to move your feet up it is at most v5, but I can see how it would be much harder if you had to move your feet off of the small left hand crimp. That is probably the source of the discrepancy.

By Aeon Aki
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 13, 2007
rating: V6

The shorter you are, the harder it gets....