The Stranger 

FA:  Matt Samet, Josh Deuto New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Views: 61 page views Submitted By: msamet on Aug 29, 2001 Add Photo  Add Comment

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A view of Queen Anne's Head from the west. The St...

Description 

This route climbs an interesting groove feature on the steep west face of Queen Anne's Head, the jutting pinnacle low on the south side of the 3rd Flatiron. Access the pinnacle either via the 1911 Gully (the gully paralleling the south side of the Flatiron's East Face) or by scrambling up from the Ghetto.

A large ledge feature runs along the base of the very overhanging west face. Step on (unprotected )at the obvious notch right of center and traverse right along the crack for about ten feet, until you can stand up. Climb directly up the red-brown face above on positive holds, moving left along a horizontal fluting to finish.

Protection 

This is a short route, so you won't need tons of gear. Bring a set of stoppers, a #4 Camalot, a #2 Camalot and two #1 Camalots or pieces of equivalent size. You'll also need gear for the belay, though you can belay off of fixed rappel anchors at the top of the spire.