Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July: First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Flatiron Queen Anne's Head WC Fields Pinnacle The Ghetto East Ironing Board West Ironing Board The Fin Green Thumb Jaws
Sarah emerging from the lower chimney as seen from...
Description
This is a really fun route, and somewhat unique for the Flatirons. Begin just outside the entrance to the Ampitheatre at the toe of the 2nd Pinnacle. This is just off the trail. There is an obvious dark 3 foot wide chimney on the right, and a larger chimney/bowl on the left. Climb the face up into the right hand chimney. Walk along the bottom of it for a bit, then head up when it begins to constrict. This is a fun minor spelunking adventure.
Once out of the chimney, head up and slightly right. Soon you will come to a slot. Climb this, then head left about 10 or 15 feet below a steep wall, then head straight up a couple steep moves to easier rock, and then the summit.
Descend by downclimbing the NW Corner. Rossiter calls this route the Southeast Face.
I did a variation to this route that turned out to be fun. The main reason is that I was a little lost. After the chimney and the short slot, continue up the arete and climb a large, left-facing dihedral. Setup a semi-hanging belay, on the right, under the roof. The last pitch hand traverses to the right along a crack with cool exposure, and finally heads up a easy slab to the top. 5.4???
By Scott McMahon From: Boulder, CO Aug 25, 2009 rating: 5.3 R
Stash the backpack!! I didn't want to leave it so I ended up trailing it off my harness and it took a lot of fun out of the slot. We might have gotten off route, but I thought some of the features were a bit thin in places for the 5.2 rating. Simul climb up into the slot chimney and the eyebolt can be reached in a single rope length. Rappel off the eye bolt through the gully, but be sure to go in between the 2nd and 3rd Pinnacles for a fast walk out. Don't follow the trail down in the dark if you can avoid it. Probably might have been more interesting and fun if we had more light and time to pick the route.
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