Unknown climber belaying at the spectacular hangin...
Description
This is a wild and exciting route that traverses the lip of a huge overhang. If you fall off the traverse pitch you have the feeling you'd be dangling in space.
Hike up to the SW of the East Ironing Board. This route is obvious as it is the last place to get on the face before a huge roof. You should be able to spot the bolts above this roof.
At the base is a small overhang which leads to a left facing dihedral (the route Sunbreeze). Clip a pin in this first overhang and crank over, then move right into the base of the dihedral (optional belay or pro, large cams needed). Beware that if you don't bring a big cam, you are looking at a pretty big fall just before you clip the first bolt (although it is pretty easy here).
Move left out of the dihedral, clipping 7 bolts as you climb diagonally up and left above the big roof on cemented pebbles (9+). Try not to think about one of the pebbles popping off. Belay at two bolts.
The final short pitch fires up past 3 bolts (11a). This is one of the easier 11a's I have done. From a 2 bolt anchor on the top, rap 130' back down over the roof.
Protection
7 QD's + slings, but you will need a large Friend (#3.5 or #4) for the first (optional) belay. You may want some small gear to try to back up the first pin as well.
I should mention that if you didn't bring 2 ropes, you are not in big trouble on the descent. From the top anchor, just climb the ridge crest (5.0) for 140' to a notch. On the other side of this notch you will see 2 beefy bolts with rings for a 60' rap West to the ground.
Can you do two single rope raps to the ground? I've only been up there once and got rained on, but it appeared that maybe you could rap from the top back down to the hanging rap (at the end of the traverse), and then rap to the ground from there. Is that possible?
Yes, Kreighton, I'm pretty sure you can also do the long rap in two raps with one rope. I've never heard of anyone doing this, but I believe the lengths work out fine. It is just painful "hanging out" at that hanging belay.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 8, 2002
IMHO, the first pitch is one of the best in the Flatirons. Quite unique as you get a ton of options for holds in the sea of pebbles but bigger does not mean better. Varied, always interesting, never vertical along that stretch but always interesting. That big cam site takes a #4 Friend beautifully but use a long sling. Make sure your 2nd is comfortable traversing/nearly leading. It is interesting to have to clean this from above if you 2nd falls off and can't finish the route. This gem (1st pitch) should not be missed. Different than most Denver-area climbs.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Aug 18, 2003 rating: 5.10d
Good climb, unique- climbing on cobbles and pebbles in Boulder County is not the norm. The route is best done in the cool weather or in the early AM before the sun hits it. Rounded white quartz cobbles we referred to as "kryptonite" holds get slick and made us over-grip and go weak if you are hot and sweaty. Still it is fun. The 2nd bolt has a finger pocket down and left of the clip with a paper-wasp nest in it. They are semi-[aggressive], but you can climb up, over and around.
[From the] top anchors, my 70M rope was laying both ends on the ground by quite a bit (7M extra each end), so a 60M would reach with spare rope as well, as long as you don't try to aim to the East on rap. a 50M [definitely] can not make it.
Wasps by second both in 2-finger pocket- avoid by clipping, then going up, left, and back down. They did not 'bug' us when we did that.
Great route. Hard to compare to the super classics, but a great route. 2.5 stars?
Short crux with a lot of 5.10- climbing around it. avoiding slipping was the crux, not any true complexity. Reach will be a factor for some people.
East Ironing Board
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