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Aerogel 

V5

   

FA: NA
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V4-5 [details]
Views: 1,211 page views

Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Mar 9, 2001


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Jay making the big reach.


Description 

Right after a huge long boulder along the left trail at the base of the second flatiron is the Stardust Boulder. Just to the right of the trail is the boulder. Aerogel starts low and traverses left to a sloping rail. Pull straight up to a crimp then the top. Unlike some other problems around Boulder, the landing on this one is great.


Protection 

Crash pad.



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Stardust Boulder v5

BETA PHOTO: Stardust Boulder v5


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By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
Aug 9, 2001

Aerogel is a silicon-based solid with a porous, sponge-like structure in which 99 percent of the volume is empty space. It is also 39 times more insulating that the best fiberglass insulation, but with a density 10_3 times less than glass. It was used on the Mars Pathfinder, and on an upcoming mission it will be used to 'catch' comet dust.

I did my senior aerospace materials research paper on the stuff.

By jonah
Mar 10, 2003

Did a fun variation the other day. When you hit the big sloper (where you would normally go to the crimp), just cut your feet and campus to the top of the arete (don't puss out and grab the side of the rail instead). I dunno if anyone has done this variation before - probably - but if not, I christen it "Campussy." Not really much harder than the regular way if you're good at campus moves, but good if you're bored...

By Darin Thompson
Sep 9, 2004

Can anyone comment on exactly what holds are "on" for this problem to go at V5? I'm specifically interested in what to do once you hit the right hand crimp after the matched hold. Are you "allowed" to go for the arete with your left hand, out and left (somewhat above the matching hold), or do you go straight up above, and almost to the right of, the right hand crimp?....

By Chip Phillips
Sep 9, 2004
rating: V5

FWIW, this is how I felt about the TWO ways most people do Aerogel ...

From the big sloper, right hand to the crimp, everything is on to the top ... V4/5.

Right hand to the crimp, go left hand all the way to the top horn ... V6.

The Hard Traverse is fun too ... solid V5 rounding the corner after pimping the sloper.

That's my 2 cents ... flame away

By micah stocker
Oct 28, 2004

I am [curious], I don't really boulder much, and I almost flashed this problem today. It only took a few tries to send. However, the way I sent it involved a large dead point up to the [arete] to the left of the crimp. Avoiding the crimp all together. Does this count as a send. It felt pretty hard, but I don't know much about bouldering.

By Chip Phillips
Oct 29, 2004
rating: V5

IMHO, the way you are describing is easier than the 2 variations I described above Micah ... in the neighborhood of V3 or 4 if I remember correctly.

That said, the way you described is certainly the least contrived way to the top.

By Aeon Aki
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 15, 2007
rating: V3+

Where is this problem supposed to start? It seems like starting on the sloper is the best way to begin however the rest of the problem described is very contrived. I think the most aesthetic and natural line on this boulder starts low on the far left then traverses RIGHT under the top rail and finishes with the deadpoint to the top from the right crimp as noted above. If climbed this way, it deserves a classic rating for sure, otherwise it's a five star boulder with a one star problem.

By Andrew Vojslavek
From: Denver, CO
Apr 8, 2007
rating: V4

I guess it could be V5, if you are not tall you cannot keep the heel hook when going to the sloper rail, right? Then once again if you are not tall the move to the right crimper maybe hard.... It is a V5 as face out.... Not V5 in Hueco....

By Jason Kaplan
From: Evergreen Co
May 14, 2007

What is the problem that sit starts and traverses up the arete?