This short but sweet face climb ascends the middle of the textured face on the southwest face of Der Freischutz, following a line of four bolts. The route has a gorgeous backdrop of Bear Canyon, and so one might want to bring a camera for this one! Start at a large hueco below the first bolt. Climb straight up past four bolts on the beatiful face into a right facing corner and over the top to anchors. The crux of the right is located right at the fourth bolt, and consists of balancy moves of hidden sidepulls and edges to gain a small ledge below the final corner. The climbing up to this point is no harder than 5.10, and winds its way upward between a series of solid crimp-sized flakes and edges with plenty of feet. To descend rappel from the anchors (50 ft.) This would most definitely receive three stars if it was not so short.
Protection
Bring four quickdraws and gear for the anchors if one is toproping.
Can you please give us specifics on the hardware that was placed: Fixe bolts or Powers bolts, what size 3/8 or 1/2, stainless or plated steel, hangers (fixe, metolius, or petzl) etc.???
I didn't replace the bolts - just provided a belay for part of the day. The ASCA kindly donated the hardware; I suggest you contact one of to get the information you are looking for.
The ASCA provided all the hardware for the anchor replacement. Thanks ASCA!! Bolts are Fixe Triplex Stainless Steel, 75mm (3inch). Hangars are Fixe SS with powdercoat camo. Anchor is Fixe SS rap ring and Fixe Plated Steel Chain Anchor. All the visible gear is camo'd with red Rustoleum.
I didn't get a chance to climb the route, but it looks pretty sweet. The bolt spacing is sporty enough to keep your attention.
I welcome any constructive criticism/comments.
Greg brings up a good point regarding bringing a wrench. If you do, I suggest a ratchet with a 17 mm socket. However, I would strongly advise that you do not tighten the bolts unless the hangar appears to be loose. This is critical, as overtightening could result in a time bomb. The new bolts are Stainless Steel (SS), which is less forgiving than mild steel, in regards to proper "torque". In placing any bolt, I prefer not to err on the side of over "torque-ing".
I would venture to say that, being SS the new gear will last decades longer than the original gear.
Note that Street Hassle, Knot Carrot and Touch Monkey have received new gear. Thanks Terry, Greg, Kevin, and others.
Der Freischutz
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