This climb starts about 250 feet from the southernmost point of the rock, just up hill from a right facing dihedral.
P1: Ascend a wonderful, clean slab for 120 feet. At the 70 foot level there is a very old bolt, this is the only protection on this pitch until you get to the 100 foot level. Belay at the top of the right-facing dihedral on the left.
P2: Make an ascending traverse to the left until you run into a water groove. Ascend this groove, which has huge holds, and belay at a tree. There is also a very old bolt on this pitch in the water groove.
P3: A short pitch above the tree leads to the summit. There is a tree below the notch in the summit which is used to descend with one rope.
The exciting runout on the first pitch and the jug haul on the second make this climb a Flatiron classic.
The two bolts on this route are pretty close to being [disintegrated], or rusting out of [their] holes for that matter. But, don't let that scare you, the bomber footholds just keep on coming. Very fun climb, great views... Just like climbing the third or something, except, without five other parties joining in for the fun!
The start of this route is at a good-sized tree that is at the bottom of a great looking slab with a right-facing corner on the left and a left-facing corner on the right. The first bolt was easy to find, but I never saw the second.
Mike, I almost went right past the second bolt too! It was at my waist when I found the old rusted out thing. It was exactly the same color as the rock...rust brown! Its about half way up the second pitch...not that the bolt is any good though...:)
We finally found both bolts on this route this morning, after climbing it many times. Mike's comment helps to find the first bolt. The second is even harder to see, and is a few feet left of a plumb line up from the first bolt (and about 200' higher!). It does lie just right of a water groove. Both these bolts are pretty lousy and mainly useful to confirm you are on this route!
If you chose not to use the bolts (probably wise), there is very little available in the way of protection. I did not see a great deal available until you reach the supposed belay areas (we soloed it so it was hard to sort out where the belays would be). The leader should regard this climb as a solo adventure for practical purposes...
I can't picture those bolts holding anything. This was fun - it's like a bunch of marbles cemented in place.
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Nov 14, 2004
From the picture, it appears that someone has hammered the first bolt back into its hole. I remember it sticking out about a 1/4-1/2 inch and being bent down.
These bolts should not be replaced for historical reasons. It is not to often you find one of these little treasures on a route.
Both bolts have been replaced with new, modern 1/2" Petzl Bolts. This was a pleasant surprise when I did the route today, because the bolt on pitch one is the only real protection.
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